Toa Payoh Heritage Trail shines the spotlight on pioneering town

Toa Payoh town has seen many innovative 'firsts' for Singapore, including beingg the first showpiece for public housing, the host village for Singapore’s first major international sporting competition and the location of the first NTUC Fairprice supermarket. It has served as a model for the development of residential towns all over Singapore.

Queen Elizabeth II with the former Chairman of the Housing & Development Board, Lee Hee Seng, at the rooftop viewing gallery of Block 53, 1972 (Ministry of Information and the Arts Collection.
Queen Elizabeth II with the former Chairman of the Housing & Development Board, Lee Hee Seng, at the rooftop viewing gallery of Block 53, 1972 (Ministry of Information and the Arts Collection. Photo courtesy: National Archives of Singapore

The National Heritage Board (NHB)’s refreshed Toa Payoh Heritage Trail will expound on the history of Singapore’s “model town” and tell the lesser-known stories of Toa Payoh’s significant landmarks. First launched in 2014 as NHB’s 11th heritage trail, the Toa Payoh Heritage Trail traced the development of the area from swampland to a “model” estate, which subsequently became home to iconic religious and community institutions.

Motorcade of Queen Elizabeth II at the VIP arrival driveway of Block 53, 1972 Ministry of Information and the Arts Collection.
Motorcade of Queen Elizabeth II at the VIP arrival driveway of Block 53, 1972 Ministry of Information and the Arts Collection. Photo courtesy: National Archives of Singapore

The trail covers 29 heritage sites and features 10 heritage trail markers, with two new marked sites comprising Block 53, also known as the “VIP Block”, and the iconic Toa Payoh Dragon Playground. These two sites join existing marked sites such as Lian Shan Shuang Lin Monastery, a National Monument and the oldest Buddhist monastery in Singapore; Masjid Muhajirin, the first mosque in Singapore to have been built with the support of contributions from the Mosque Building Fund (known as the Mosque Building and Mendaki Fund (MBMF) today) alongside community fundraising; Toa Payoh Town Park, home to a 25-metre-tall Look-Out Tower which was accorded conservation status by the Urban Redevelopment Authority in 2009; and four point HDB blocks1 which housed international athletes as part of the Former 1973 Southeast Asian Peninsular (SEAP) Games Village.

View of the fountain that previously stood in front of Toa Payoh Public Library building (centre) that housed the secretariat for the 1973 SEAP Games, 1970s.
View of the fountain that previously stood in front of Toa Payoh Public Library building (centre) that housed the secretariat for the 1973 SEAP Games, 1970s. Photo courtesy: National Library Board

Alvin Tan, Deputy Chief Executive (Policy & Community), NHB, said, “Through the refreshed Toa Payoh Heritage Trail, we hope to highlight new facets of the town’s history that very few Singaporeans know about, and present a more complete and updated story of Toa Payoh. In doing so, we hope to foster a greater sense of pride and belonging amongst residents, and encourage both residents and non-residents to re-explore Toa Payoh and rediscover the town’s heritage anew.”

The Toa Payoh Heritage Trail also incorporates contributions from the community and presents stories, memories and photographs contributed by former and current residents. Mdm Tang Mei Fong, a resident of Block 53 who contributed to the refreshed Toa Payoh Heritage Trail, shared her personal memories of Toa Payoh, “I vividly remember the day Queen Elizabeth II visited our block. We all gathered around our doorways to look out for her arrival. I am very proud that a queen visited, and that Toa Payoh is used as a model for Singapore’s public housing that we show to the world.”

As the first town designed and developed entirely by HDB, Toa Payoh acted as a testbed for different architectural styles and features of public housing, as well as community amenities that can be found in HDB towns today. Block 53 and its surrounding blocks, which were among the first built in the area, are examples of such innovative architecture.

Completed in 1967, the 19-storey Block 53 offers a panoramic view of Toa Payoh. A viewing gallery on its roof played host to many foreign and local dignitaries such as Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II, then-Australian Prime Minister John Gorton, and Singapore’s second President Benjamin Sheares, which led it to be dubbed the “VIP Block”. The photos appended below show Block 53 as it was then and as it is now:

Toa Payoh became the host village for the first major international sporting competition to be held in Singapore – the 1973 Southeast Asian Peninsular (SEAP) Games. While the games villages of most international meets are located away from local population centres, the Toa Payoh Games Village embedded visiting athletes and officials from seven different countries in the heart of Toa Payoh, and encouraged them to socialise with the locals, providing them with an authentic Singaporean experience.

A total of four HDB point blocks in Toa Payoh Central were used to house athletes from the seven participating nations. Following the conclusion of the games, units in the blocks were sold to the public fully furnished. Photos of part of the Games Village and the blocks as they stand today are as appended below:

Another much-celebrated landmark of Toa Payoh is the iconic Dragon Playground, with its classic elements of a terrazzo-clad dragon’s head distinguished by bold lines and geometric features. It was the creation of HDB architect Khor Ean Ghee and the design proved to be so popular that it led to different versions of the dragon head in various colour schemes appearing in playgrounds across Singapore. 

The updated Toa Payoh Heritage Trail also sheds light on lesser-known stories of the town, such as how women formed the majority of the pioneer generation of young factory workers in Singapore as it underwent rapid industrialisation in the 1960s. 

Another highlight of the refreshed trail is the NTUC Fairprice located at 192 Lorong 4 Toa Payoh, whose ubiquitous look belies its landmark status as the first National Trades Union Congress (NTUC) Welcome Supermarket in Singapore. It was opened to counter inflation and supplier profiteering. The supermarket attracted huge numbers of shoppers upon its opening, and even had to close its doors every three to four hours to prevent overcrowding.

NTUC Welcome Supermarket at Toa Payoh, 1973 Ministry of Information and the Arts Collection
NTUC Welcome Supermarket at Toa Payoh, 1973 Ministry of Information and the Arts Collection. Photo courtesy: National Archives of Singapore

As part of the refresh, three newly curated thematic routes will bring trail-goers on different journeys vis-a-vis (1) the evolution of public housing design, (2) the histories of religious institutions in Toa Payoh and (3) the everyday heritage of the area’s community institutions. These self-guided routes, which trail-goers can embark on in their own time and according to their interests, are:

  • Of Public Housing & Shared Spaces (1.5 hours on foot, 4.5 km): This trail explores the architectural development of HDB blocks, communal spaces and town planning, which reflected the needs and aspirations of Singaporean homeowners over the decades.
  • Of Faiths & Beliefs (2 hours with public transport, 6 km): This trail showcases the temples, mosques, churches and institutions that represent the diverse communities which live, work and worshipped in Toa Payoh.
  • Of Community Institutions & Common Spaces (0.5 hours on foot, 1.5 km): This trail focuses on the institutions and spaces that continue to play an active role in the sporting, cultural and social lives of Toa Payoh residents.