The softest meat kebabs, delicious biryanis and lip-smacking lassis await every foodie looking for a paradise in the streets of Atala in Allahabad city, now called Prayagraj.
The city of Prayagraj or the land which is next to the confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna and mythical Saraswati rivers, offers every traveller an assortment of delicacies – many influenced by the long rule of Mughals in India in the 1500s.
Restaurants, some almost 90-years old, can be found in the streets of Atala which is chock-a-block with places to eat and drink that still follow traditional cooking methods, some of which were exclusive to the Kings and Emperors of the day but now open to the common folk.
If you are a fan of kebabs – roasted and grilled pieces of meat on a skewer – made for the erstwhile Indian royalty Nawabs, then make that visit to the Al-Ghausia restaurant that serves up the famous Galouti Kebabs which literally melt in your mouth.
Legend has it that in the 1800s an old and aging Wajid Ali Shah – the then Nawab of Lucknow – lost all his teeth but he was still keen on eating his meat kebabs. He ordered his cooks to come up with kebabs that they were not at all chewy, as they usually are, had the same taste and aroma, but then would not require him to use his teeth at all.
The cooks conjured up the softest meat kebabs, which simply melted in the Nawab’s mouth: The Galouti Kebab. The word ‘Galouti’ comes from ‘gala’ which means soft enough to swallow.
The dish, though originated in Lucknow is also found in the Prayagraj’s Atala street where it is still being made the original way, with the same cooking technique, as in the 1800s when Wajid Ali Shah ruled as a Nawab.
The biggest queues in Atala can be found outside the Al-Ghausia which is also famous for its Seekh Kebabs, Boti Kebabs, Reshmi Kebabs, and a meat dish called Pasanda among others.
Mohammed Aameen, owner of the restaurant which still has only one location and no franchises, is always at hand supervising a team of cooks who are busy preparing the kebabs and other delicacies.
“It is important to have a close watch on the preparations so that delicious food can be served to the customers. The kebabs are so tender that they have to be given the right amount of heat so that it maintains its taste and flavour,” said Aameen.
When asked about the ingredients of the Galouti Kebab, he said, “We mix about 52 items in the Galouti Kebab. However, the principal ingredient of galouti kebab is the papaya. It is a tenderizing agent which is added to make the kebab soft and tender so that it can melt in the mouth. “
The other popular item in the restaurant is the Seekh Kebab. Here, the soft meat is pounded into a fine paste. Then, it is rolled on the seekh (small iron rods). The meat is tied with a thread so that it does not fall off. It is then cooked on an open fire. The kebabs are served with freshly prepared parathas (Indian bread cooked in large frying pans) or naan (Indian bread cooked in clay ovens or tandoors).
Ameen’s restaurant, now about 90 years old in the city, was started by his grandfather.
“It is God’s grace that our kebab and other items are being made popular in many cities. Presently we take orders from the customers for marriages, cultural functions and corporate parties in other cities and we are concentrating in these areas. In future, we might open our franchises in other cities,” he said.
The Atala area is also famous for its biryanis – an exquisite combination of spices, meat and rice. Many outlets in the area serve biryanis made almost the same way as during the Mughal era in the 1500s.
This dish flourished in some of the notable Muslim centres throughout the country including Lucknow, old Delhi and Hyderabad but now it is found everywhere in the world.
“Our preparations for biryani starts right from the afternoon. The workers have been instructed to mix all the masalas in right proportions to provide the authentic dish. We also add a special ingredient jaifal (nutmeg) to provide the characteristic aroma to biryani,” said Aslam Husain who is a popular biryani seller in the area.
After eating all the spice, Atala’s famous lassi shops are a must visit. Lassi, a cool yogurt-based drink is popular during the summer season but it is also enjoyed year-round. There are numerous shops in the Atala area churning out lassi in special earthen pots.
“I come out regularly in the evening to have a glass of lassi which is laced with the special sharbat ‘Rooh Afza’. The taste is just heavenly,” said Sanjay Kesarwani, who is a regular in Atala.